BOMBSHELL SEWALONG PART III: CUTTING FABRIC & GATHERING BACK PIECES

Hey pals.

Now that you have your pattern cut, graded and/or adjusted to fit your hot bod as required, we will start cutting our fabric out.

I am making myself View A in a pretty abstract floral print (I am size 10). This is how my pieces looked laid out on the fabric:

Once I cut out the straps and the two ruched bodice pieces, I folded the remaining fabric in half to cut out my crotch piece. That piece must be cut on a fold. Don't be deceived by it not being all foldy in the above photo.

As you can see, using one metre or yard of fabric, you can just get enough for View A for sizes 10 and under (but if you lengthen your pieces a lot you may need a little more fabric).

View B takes a little less fabric, especially considering I lengthened these pieces a lot for my friend Izzy's suit:

My preferred method for cutting is a rotary cutter on a self-healing mat. A mat and cutter will set you back around $80 but it is sooooooo worth it. I use washers from the hardware store as pattern weights and it took me about 10 minutes to cut out each suit. Obviously you can use scissors, but you will have to be careful and pin your pieces often since swimsuit fabric can be slinky and temperamental.

Cut your fabric pieces, transfer your notches, and repeat for your lining pieces.  Because our seam allowances are only 1/4", it is better if you use a marking tool as opposed to cutting your notches. It will be difficult to find a cut notch since your seams will be either be serged or zigzagged together by the time you need to match markings.

I like making longer markings with a disappearing tool so I can see them even after I have serged my seams:

Once your fabric has been cut out and all relevant markings have been transferred to your fabric, it is time to prep your gathered pattern pieces. This is the most fiddly part of making this swimsuit and it takes a little time to prepare these pieces but you want your ruching to be as evenly distributed as possible. Please note that all of the following instructions apply equally to all 3 views, despite the fact that I am showing it for View A in the photos.

Let us begin. Before we sew our gather lines, sew a few rows of straight and zig zag stitches on a piece of scrap fabric to work out your tension. If you are having problems with skipped stitches, it is probably because you do not have stretch needles.

Next, sew two rows of long basting stitches within your seam allowance along each side of pieces A & B, about an 1/8" of an inch apart. For the second row I like to keep the fabric lined up on the 1/4" mark on my machine and just move my needle over.  Make sure you leave a few inches on each end of each line of stitching.

Once you have sewn your basting stitches on all 6 seams, lay one of your back lining pieces flat on your work space. You want the corresponding fabric piece (B) to match the length of each seam once it is evenly gathered.

Note: Normally I prefer to gather fabric using the ol' zigzag over a piece of string and pull manoeuvre. That technique doesn't work here since you need to secure your gathered edge to the lining. Which means sewing over the string. I know this does not work. Me and my seam ripper know alllll too well. Stick to basting stitches.

Secure one of the gathered seams by wrapping the loose thread ends around a pin in a figure 8 motion. Once one end is secure you can fiddle with with your gathers until they are as even as possible and match the length of the corresponding lining seam. Secure the other end of the thread using the same figure 8.

The one area where you don't want many gathers is at the top point of your back piece. You can leave the top few inches relatively ungathered. It looks really gnarly and does not sew together nicely if there are a lot of gathers on that skinny bit. Ask me how I know.

 As you can see above, the gathering in the top point is minimal.

Repeat the above steps for all 4 seams on the 2 back ruched pieces.

Please note.... the side seams are actually straight (unlike most dress or blouse side seams). The curved seam on the back pieces is actually the back seam. Just keep that in mind so you don't sew the side seams together instead of the center seams. Ask me how I know this.

Once you have your two back ruched pieces, all evenly gathered and looking so lovely and purty, it's time to pin them to your lining. Pin frequently to ensure your gathers stay evenly distributed.

When it comes time to sew your lining to your fabric, there are 2 options.

1. Serge them if you have an overlocker. Make sure you have your differential feed on (if that is an option on your machine) so your seams are not stretched while you sew. Don't sew over your pins. Rock and roll.

2. Use your narrow basting zigzag stitch. If, like me, your machine does not have an adjustable pressure foot, and if, like me, your walking foot blows, you may have issues with your foot flattening out your gathers as you sew. If this is the case, pin even more frequently and sew slowly while using your fingers to try and keep the ruching even. If all else fails and your machine smooshes your gathers too much, you may need to hand baste them first. Annoying, but worth it for more even gathering.

Here is a completed basted back piece. The top edge is done using a zigzag on a regular machine, the bottom was done on a serger:

The same piece from the other side (the zigzag is not as pretty because my machine is a jerk):

Once both back fabric pieces have been basted to  their respective linings, you can serge or zig zag the leg opening. Leave the crotch and top as is for now.

Now it is time to sew the two ruched pieces together along the curved center seam. Again, you can either serge or zig zag here. If zig zagging, keep your stitch fairly narrow.

Alright! Let's leave it here for today! Tomorrow we will prep the front!

BOMBSHELL SEWALONG PT II: PREPPING PATTERN PIECES

Hello Sewalongers!

Firstly, congrats to Meredith who the random number generator chose as the lucky recipient for the By Hand London Victoria Blazer giveaway! It's on its way to Brooklyn this week.

On to Bombshell business.... Hopefully you have been able to gather the necessary supplies I outlined here. Your fabric should be pre-washed and ready to go while we begin to prepare the pattern for assembly. A reader pointed out that you should print your instructions in colour. Apparently information is lost when they are done in grey scale.

Have you decided which view to go with yet? View B may be the best option if you need some lift for the girls and are concerned that just adding cups to View A will not be sufficient (or don't want to insert additional structure). If you go with View C, I will be covering some options for self drafting a matching bikini top (or follow my lead and just make a simple black bottom to mix and match with bikini tops already in the arsenal).

The Bombshell pattern comes in 2 formats: letter/A4 and one sheet of 36x68 paper for printing at a copy shop with a large scale printer. I prefer to have it copied professionally but it is definitely more convenient to print from home. The easiest way to assemble your letter pages is to cut along two edges of each page and overlap your paper seams. When your pattern is assembled, you can certainly cut out your pattern pieces, but I highly suggest tracing them instead. Some pieces for View B are nested in pieces for View A, and if you cut one out and not the other, you will have to reprint the entire pattern if you decide to make the other view down the road.

Using a ruler, a french curve or a steady hand, trace you pattern with your chosen size, transferring all markings and notes. If you are different sizes on top and bottom, simply draw a smooth curve to grade between sizes, making sure you make the same curve on the front and back pieces.

I said "steady hand" but I was very hungover yesterday when I traced this. Please forgive me.

The Bombshell only comes in 8 sizes. If you are outside the range, don't sweat it! This is a very forgiving pattern to grade up because it is so stretchy. You can simply add what you need to the seam allowances, but I would strongly suggest making a muslin of the lining pieces to ensure a good fit.

  SHORTENING AND LENGTHENING                                                                                                

If you are of the long or short waisted variety and are used to having to modify your patterns, I highly suggest you make a muslin of the lining pieces. Any stretch fabric will do the trick. This will give you an idea of how much you need to lengthen or shorten it.

For the sewalong, I made View B for my pal Izzy. She is 5'-10" and based on comments from a pattern tester who is the same height, I lengthened the bodice by 3 inches. On each pattern piece there are 2 cut lines. It is better to stretch your pattern at 2 places rather than juts one since it runs the entire length of your torso and you don't want to distort it too much at only one place.

Ed: The pattern was drafted using my bod as the standard, so I would say the average height it is meant to fit would be around 5'-6". This may be irrelevant to you if you are long or short-waisted however.

For the lining pieces, I inserted 1 1/2" at each lengthen/shorten line and then drew a gentle curve to connect the lines. For the ruched fabric pattern pieces (A&B), you want to follow the same method but you will be increasing the amount you lengthen it. There is a ratio of 1:1.6 between the lining and ruched fabric pieces. Therefore, you want to multiply the amount of inches you are lengthening the suit overall by 1.6 to get the amount you need to lengthen the ruched pieces. For example, I lengthened my lining pieces 3 inches and the ruched pieces 4 3/4 inches.

If you are shortening your pattern pieces, I wouldn't worry about reducing the length of your ruched pieces unless it is a significant amount. You will simply have a touch more ruching which ain't no thang.

That's it for today. Tomorrow we will be cutting our fabric and gathering our ruched fabric pieces. See you then!

TYPOS ARE THE BANE OF MY EXISTANCE

Hey Bombshellers... someone pointed something out to me on Etsy and I am deeply mortified. For the size 12, the fabric requirements should read 2 yds for 45" and 1.5 yds for 60" fabric (not 1.5yds/1yd). I had the metric dimensions right but was off on the imperial quantity (for the size 12 only). If you've already bought your fabric you should have no problem getting View B cut but you may need to squeeze View A in.

I'm so sorry and so embarrassed. Hopefully this will not cause a problem for anyone...

THE VICTORIA BLAZER plus GIVEAWAY

It's been a thrilling week and a big thank you to everyone who has purchased, tweeted or posted about the Bombshell. I'm having summer meet-up fantasies that involve the beach and a long line of sewists modelling their handmade swimsuits (maybe like this?)

Now you know why I had this photo blown up in my sewing studio. These ladies were a daily inspiration!

Before I start the Bombshell sewalong this Monday, I wanted to post my new favourite make. The babes at By Hand London sent me a copy of their new Victoria Blazer and I was sooooooo pysched to try it, especially because I have never made a jacket before and this looked like it would be doable for a newb.

AND HOW! Anyone like me, irrationally scared of making a jacket, has nothing to fear. This is an easy to assemble, slouchy jacket with no tailoring required. As per usual, the packaging of the pattern itself is to-die-for-lovely, and the instructions are warm, clear and easy to follow.

I immediately zeroed in on the sleeveless version. I've been jonesing for one of those slightly tomboyish, insouciant type of khaki/army vests you can throw over anything a little more refined for that chic "See how I mix the things so effortlessly?" vibe. Like this. Rachel really nails what I mean here. I scored a lightweight army twill during our Montreal meet-up and knocked this beaut off in a few short hours.

I've worn it quit a few times already - it's become the perfect thing to throw over a t-shirt and some skinny jeans like I did here, or with a more feminine summer dress when you want to tone down the girly. The only change I made to the pattern was to omit the full lining. I instead made a facing using the same fabric as the outside, and faced the collar, lapel and armholes, along with a small band at the bottom seam. In hindsight, I should have just lengthened the jacket an inch or two and folded and topstitched the hem instead of facing it, but whatevs. I'm at work now and neglected to get a shot of the insides but can do so later if anyone wants to see what I mean.

(May I draw your attention to THE SHOES?! I almost cried when I saw them at Zara, especially since I've been pining for the woven Prada shoes I think they are inspired by, knowing they were never to be mine.) First heels I've bought in over a year!

Also, I discovered I can take decent project photos on my iphone, once I put them through the COMPLETE MAGIC that is the Kitcam app (seriously the best photo app on the market. You can basically throw every other app you have in the metaphorical digital garbage because this does EVERYTHING). These aren't bad for non-SLR photos right? Better than hungover self-protraits in my hallway, where everything turns out blurry.

Now here is some good news! The good babes at BHL have generously given me an extra copy to give away! Who else wants to rock this casually chic, London street-smart jacket? Just leave me a comment below telling me whether or not you would make the regular, cropped or sleeveless version and with what fabric. I will randomly pick a winner on Saturday!

SEW BOSSY BUSINESS

In all my pattern making madness I have neglected the poor Sew Bossy Initiative because I am a bad blogger.

For new followers... The Sew Bossy Initative is something Oona and I dreamed up. You can read more about it here. Basically you boss the shit out of a fellow blogger and get them to make something of your choosing. It's bosstastic! (I still love my Oona boss dress more than life).

I just went and checked the Sew Bossy page and discovered a new matchup! And I know that there are more bosses I have missed because guys, I am now following over 150 blogs and I just can't be everywhere at once.

 
If you have completed a Sew Bossy challenge can you please post the link below? I am starting a Pinterest board and I would like to do a recap post sometime soon displaying all your bossy antics.

Yours in bossiness,
Heather

ps. I can't pin your project to Pinterest if you host your photos on Flickr. Does anyone know a way around this?

THE BOMBSHELL SEWALONG BEGINS - MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS

Hey guys? Quit being amazing.

Last night I posted the Bombshell Swimsuit on Etsy and the avalanche of orders and goodwill and blogger love this morning made me fill up with joy. I’m basically the happiness equivalent of Violet Beauregard in Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory after she turns into a giant blueberry, just minus the blue. And the spoiled sense of entitlement. Just a giant inflated ball of joy (this is a really tortured metaphor).

You can read all about the schedule for the Bombshell Sewalong here. If you are interested in participating and want to add a badge to your blog, you can grab it here:

Today I want to discuss the material requirements of the Bombshell Swimsuit. The Sewalong starts a week from Monday so hopefully you will have enough time to gather your supplies in the meantime.

 FABRIC

Many vintage style swimsuits use non stretch fabric. The Bombshell is NOT one of them. You really need a lycra fabric that can survive the stresses of salt, sun and chlorine. This suit fits like a second skin and you want a fabric that has enough stretch to get on and off, and will hold it’s shape when wet.

I am calling it “swimwear lycra” but this material is also used to make skating and gymnastics costumes as well. What you want is a fabric blend of spandex and nylon (called lycra even though I believe this is a brand name of spandex, much the way we call tissues “Kleenex”). The ideal ratio is 80-90% nylon and 10-20% spandex. The nylon gives the durability and the spandex provides the stretch. This is the only material I can safely recommend for this particular suit. Unfortunately, natural materials like cotton or rayon knits are not going to work here.

My lycra store (the perks of living in a fashion capitol!) carries two kinds of swimwear lycra – a matte Italian and a “wet look” one. The “wet look” lycra can be used on either side; the “wrong” side has slightly less sheen. I find the lycra with the sheen slightly easier to work with but the matte looks fabulous on, especially in a solid colour. Some examples of the kind of lycra you are looking for can be found here.

As for the lining, you want a stretchy knit lining fabric, again in synthetic fibers like nylon or polyester. I used a nude lining in all of my samples but you can also get a black lining for darker suits. Anyone interested in making a white bombshell should take a look at the HOLY OMG AMAZING miracle that is Carolyn’s make. She lined hers with the same fabric she used on the outside. If you were still feeling nervous about nip slippage, you could do an extra lining at the crotch and bust in nude, just to be one the safe side. An example of lining fabrics can be found here.

A few of my pattern testers lined their fabric in the same material they used on the outside – this is totally a viable option but just keep in mind that the fabric is definitely thicker than the lining and you are adding a  little bulk/weight to your suit, especially when it gets wet. But from what I’ve seen, it does not affect the way it looks on whatsoever.

What about prints? For my sample suits I used a solid lycra, but for the sewalong I am using a beautiful  floral watercolour-esque print I found in San Francisco. I think the Bombshell works with prints very well. Here are a few I found that could be pretty spectacular:

Gold polka dots at Michael Levine! (10% off all their swimwear!)

From Spandex House, this animal print would be pretty classy-trashy.

Also from Spandex House.... THUNDERSTORMS!! AAAHHH! The brain boggles!

Spandex World blows minds with this Galaxy print.

Sixties cheery vibez from Spandex World.

OMBRE!!!!

Pretty abstract print at Michael Levine.

Internet shopping may be the way to go for many of you, but you should be able to find lycra at any large fabric store. Almost all of my favourite haunts in Montreal carry a few bolts of it.

Here is the amount of fabric you will need to purchase for your suit:

Places to buy fabric

Fabric Depot Co.

Spandex World

Fabric.com

Spandex House 

A GREAT post on swimwear fabric from the SwimAlong series can be found here. All lycra questions answered!

I will cover this later but if you want to be totally ready to go, you may want to pre-wash your fabric once it arrives. I say "may" because lycra is one of the few fabrics that rarely shrink. The advantage to not washing it (as I learned from the wise and wonderful Dixie DIY) is that the selvedges do not curl, making it easier to cut out. However, I just heard from one of my pattern testers that she used a cheap lycra that shrank AND bled dye. So maybe a cold wash is best to be on the safe side.

 ELASTIC

The type of elastic you chose to make your suit will have a huge impact on its lifespan. Traditional polyester elastic is not the best choice for swimwear. It breaks down in salt and chlorine and will ultimately not stand the test of time. There are two options for swimwear elastic.

•       Rubber. Rubber elastic comes in white or black. The black rubber I used for all of my suits so far has slight ridges on it which make it easier to line up with your fabric edge when sewing it down.

•      “Swimwear” elastic. It is also known as “natural” or “cotton” elastic. It is generally made from mostly cotton and about a third of neoprene. I will be using this elastic for the first time during the sewalong, but I believe this is the more common elastic used in swimwear.

I specify 1/4" elastic but I believe the "swimwear" cotton elastic is mostly if not only, available in 3/8". If you use 3/8" you will be fine.

You can purchase elastic at lingerie supply stores like Sew Sassy or Fabric Depot, along with various shops on Etsy. Again, any big sewing store like JoAnn’s or Fabricville should carry it.

You will need 4 yds altogether.

 THREAD

Pretty simple.  You want a high quality 100% polyester thread. I prefer Gutterman’s but whatever floats your boat. You will go through a lot of it, especially with your gathers and topstitching, so I would suggest getting at least 250 yds.

For those with sergers, I know that using wooly nylon thread in your loopers really helps with the stretchiness of your seams, but I haven’t tried it yet. I may give it a whirl for the Sewalong suit.

 NEEDLES

Anyone who has sewn stretchy knits on a traditional sewing machine has probably experienced the rage of skipped stitches. Last year when I first started sewing swimsuits I almost threw my machine out the window. Nothing was working.

You really, really need the right needle for this project.  You want a needle with a ballpoint so it goes in between the weave of your fabric and catches the bobbin thread. Sharps are likely to give you a world of headaches. I tried “knit” needles but the only kind that guarantees me a nice even stitch are “Stretch” needles. Elona on a Pattern Review board says it best: “The [stretch needle] has a deeper ‘scarf’, an indentation that allows a longer thread loop to form, increasing the chance that it will be caught by the hook of the sewing machine, and that a stitch will be formed successfully on a difficult, stretchy fabric.”

Thanks Elona. Couldn’t have said it better. Now go get some stretch needles.

 MACHINE

You can absolutely make the Bombshell sans serger but your machine must have a zig zag function. My first swimsuit was done using just the zig zag on my old Singer. Obviously, the guts of your suit will look a little less polished, but it can be done. I will provide help on how to do this as cleanly as possible.

 CUPS

If you need some support for your big naturals (thank you Sarah Silverman for the best way to describe tatas ever) you should probably pick up some cups. Now, I am a 34D and am TOTALLY fine without support in this suit. The halter version is especially supportive on its own. However, if you want additional boob cradlage or even just nip padding, cups are a good idea. I will be doing a post on how to add them to the two views. You can get these cups at any decent sewing supplies shop or wherever you are getting your elastic.

However, since I have not used these yet, I am going to cede some territory to Dixie DIY who did a great swimsuit sewalong last year. Here is what she has to say about cups:

My faves are these kind that I bought at Sew Sassy but I've also seen them on Etsy and other sites. They're soft and flexible and provide more coverage and gentle shaping than "lift." They come in several sizes.

If your bust is on the larger side you can combine these cups with a shelf bra in the lining (elastic support under the bust with more room for the "ladies") or you can use a bra-style suit or bikini top and use pre-moulded cups or Poly Laminated Foam as an interlining.

 Poly Laminated Foam is often used in swim bras and sometimes regular bras. It is usually a 1/8" to 1/4" thick dense but flexible foam with a soft fabric layer on either side. In normal bras the tricot or power knit fabric provides minimal stretch while still supporting the cups. Although the design may be the same, in swimwear the fabric is way too stretchy to hold in the mounds (know what I'm sayin'?) so the foam gives structure and support without much bulk. You can cut the foam to fit your needs and make your own cups if you want.

Thanks Dixie! You can read her awesome materials post here.

 ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Scissors or a rotary cutter and mat (I’m a rotary cutter girl myself. SO MUCH FASTER!)

Pins

Measuring tape

A ruler if you need to make modifications

A marking tool

That should do it for supplies! I suggest getting everything by next Monday so you can follow along. I am really excited to get people on the Bombshell bandwagon!

Lastly....

A strange full-circle feeling came over me this morning when I read Casey’s post on yesterday's  passing of Esther Williams… She embodied 1940’s and 50's swimsuit glamour like no other. She was a definite inspiration when I drafted this suit and the coincidence of her death and the release of this suit feels weirdly symbolic.

Hope there are pools in heaven, Esther.

(Someone quick - do a metallic lame version!)

THE BOMBSHELL SWIMSUIT IS HERE!

I can't believe it... but after months of sample making, pattern tweaking, Illustrator learning, instruction writing, detail obsessing, teeth gnashing.... my first pattern is now available to purchase!

The Bombshell is modeled on a classic 1950's silhouette, a style that harkens back to the golden era of flattering, sexy and (dare I say) modest swimsuits. The pattern includes 3 variations in 8 sizes: a gathered bust, a halter neck, and a high waist bottom which you can mix and match with your favourite bikini top. Ruched on all sides and along the back centre seam, the Bombshell hugs your curves while providing full (but sexy) coverage. Its booty encasing seat and skirt-like front ensure your butt is covered (literally), avoiding the dreaded 4-cheek butt-bulge of higher cut suits. Fully lined, it will keep you decent in or out of the water.

The reason I dedicated this spring to perfecting the Bombshell pattern on top of my my fulltime job and other life commitments is simple. Without a doubt, this is the most flattering swimsuit I have ever worn, and I wanted to share it with other women. No more body shame and self loathing in poorly lit dressing rooms. No more ill-cut, poorly made bathing suits that rarely fit and rarely flatter. Let's take back the beach. Let's take back the pool. Let's remember that summer is meant to be enjoyed, not endured while constantly adjusting or covering up.

The feedback I have been getting back from my pattern testers has only reaffirmed what I believe to be true - give a lady a sexy, modestly cut swimsuit, and you give her years of happy beach vacations. I am very excited for you to see their versions cropping up here and there over the next few weeks. I've been getting hot pics of my buds in swimsuits all week and I can tell you... holy schmajoly. Everyone looks like a pinup in this baby.

Here are some more detailed shots of View A & B.

Below you can find the size chart for this pattern. There is little ease to ensure a snug fit, taking into consideration that things stretch when wet. All my testers have informed me that it fits perfectly once on.

Now, for those of you who are nervous about sewing a swimsuit for the first time or just want some extra guidance to make this particular suit.... I will be hosting a sewalong! I will post more details tomorrow, including material requirements, but rest assured that I will provide even more detailed instructions than what I include in the pattern. We will discuss the intricacies of swimsuit sewing, pattern adjustments, along with some tricks and tips I've discovered while developing this pattern. While this could probably be described as an intermediate pattern, I firmly believe anyone can make this suit. I will be happy to hold your hand through the process.

The Sewalong will start NEXT Monday, June 17th in order to give everyone time to gather their materials. I will be posting almost daily until we finish at the end of June, giving you two weeks to take your time and make the most flattering, confidence boosting swimsuit you have ever worn in your life. I can't wait to begin!

Buy your Bombshell Swimsuit Pattern HERE!

ps. I am currently only setup to accept Paypal. That may change in the future but you will need a Paypal account to purchase this pattern!