Wax prints & party dresses

It's a given. If you plunk me down in a fabric store I will somehow find the weirdest, loudest, most psychedelic print within seconds. What can I say? I just really like when all the colors making sweet, beautiful love to each other. As I result I get positively spastic when I encounter African wax prints. I get crushes on them like boys, except they NEVER forget to call you and ALWAYS listen to you when you want to talk about the new episode of Girls. They seem to be pretty easy to come by in my fabric neck of the woods - I've been eye-banging some pretty ones with silkscreened gold but it wasn't until I stumbled over these hot pink prints in Toronto a few months ago that I finally took some home.

Speaking of eye-banging.... Oh, hello psychedelic eyeballs. What are you looking at from that sea of batik? Why, HELLO giant acorns! Don't you look awesome next to acid-eyes over there! Why don't I throw you two together into a giant party dress and see what happens? It's like little Henrietta housewife left that 50's cocktail shindig, wandered over to an acid party at Tim Leary's house and tripped right into this frock.

Maybe it's just me?

I cannot take credit for this African print + 50's New Look idea. I saw this dress a few months ago and it's been hanging around at the back of my brain whispering "Do it do it do it do it". I love 50's silhouettes but an authentically period dress is not very condusive to my day to day life. I liked the idea of taking this classic style and mashing it up with an unexpected textile. I used Butterick 5748; the only changes I made were making it quite a bit shorter (more modern I think and better looking with flats). It was easy peasy to assemble. I only ran into problems when I went to cut out the circle skirt and realised that 2 yards of the acorn print wasn't going to be enough, so I finished the back with more of the eyeballs. I prefer to think of it as "fun and unexpected" rather than "poorly planned and ill concieved".

Inspired by Gertie's suggestion for making a nice full skirt, I lined the skirt with poly organza and the top with cotton batiste. It really does add a lot of fullness and movement. I'm wearing it with a small crinoline in these photos but it has a nice shape without it. The only problem is that in an utterly shocking turn of events, poly organza does not feel great on your bum and legs on a hot summer day. Bike shorts mandatory.

And can I get an amen for my hemming foot? I'm still mastering it but I can't imagine hemming a circle skirt any other way. It's so stinking fast! Stay tuned next week for that green and white chevron number I posted about over the weekend. It's finished and it's FANTASTIC.

After I complete the 50's style swimsuit I'm going to start working on tomorrow I may need to retire this decade for a while...

Yo Yo Me

My friends, I need your sage advice. I have been (steadily, meticulously, patiently) working on a new dress. I am obsessed with getting the fit just so and since I have also been very busy this week, progress is slow. I am currently at a loss about a few critical decisions.

I am making a Butterick 50's reprint with a green cotton stripe, a pattern I laboured to find so I could make a chevron at the bust. Now that the bodice is done I have a few decisions to make:

Do I keep the dress more or less as designed with the full skirt and scoop neck? Do I modify the neckline to match the angle of the stripe? Do I scrap the full skirt and go for a little sheath? I simply cannot make a decision. I'm leaning towards option 1 because I think the V might not be very deep, and when it comes to necklines and my cleavage, I'm of the GO BIG OR GO HOME school. Either show off the girls or wrap 'em right up. But I'm a weirdo. What do YOU think? I wanna finish this beauty but I'd like your input.

(Also much thanks to the lovely and amazing Cindy over at Cation Designs who kindly helped me figure out how to treat the circle skirt when you are working with stripes. She made a beautiful dress a few months ago with the same chevron effect at the bust. She suggested a gathered skirt, but I think the fabric is too thick so I may cut the circle into quarters and hope for the best where the stripes line up).

Caftantastic

Getting older means that a seemingly harmless night of sangria with old friends becomes the worst decision you ever made when struggling valiantly to get through work the next day without face-planting on your keyboard. I’m also trying to quit smoking for the 11^th time, and once again cracked like a hardboiled egg in the face of the combined force of chain smoking friends + outside patio. Which is to say, I smoked a lot last night. I hate myself at the moment – it seems manageable enough for me to abstain day to day but get a few cocktails in me and all I want to do is gulp poisonous air into my lungs. Has anyone had any experience with hypnotherapy? I feel like I need someone to get all up into my subconscious and rewire whatever Marlboro Man neuron starts firing whenever I imbibe the hooch.

Cuba was supposed to be where I broke up with smoking forever. Smokes are dirt cheap and it’s like a Mad Man episode down there in that you can smoke wherever and whenever you feel like it (the cars are not the only thing stuck in the past). Thankfully I managed to stop smoking long enough to take these photos. We had walked down the beach to a local restaurant for fresh lobster (in essence the only truly tasty thing we ate the entire time we were there). Caftan + barefoot + sunset + beach = rum commercial.

So this caftan. If I could, I would live in them. My vision of retirement involves a closet full of them. Something so elegant and easy and glamorous about a long, sheer dress that blows in the wind. Throw in a psychedelic print and We. Are. In. Business. This chiffon I found in NYC, and knew right away I wanted to whip something up for Cuba. I used this pattern with a few modifications.

I used French seams along the sides and bust, and practiced using my baby hem foot on the sleeves and hem. I’m getting better at it, but thankfully you all live too far away to see how jacked some parts of the hem are.  That aside, I found this material relatively easy to work with – not half as slippy as the last time I tried working with chiffon. I even bought some of that spray stabilizer but didn’t end up needing to use it (even though a very small bottle cost $18!!!) It is a border print so I tried to line up the horizontal bands under the bust and near the hem. The pattern called for a drawstring but I didn’t see the point. I added elastic instead. The V was very deep – fine if you are just using this as a bikini coverup but I raised the neckline in the event that I ever wear this in the city with a bra instead of a bathing suit.

This dress came together very quickly and I’m super happy with it, but it is a trial to walk in when it is very humid out, as the material clings to your legs like saran wrap. Much better for a warm, dry and breezy day. I quite like the sheerness of it – with hot pants and a bra under it’s naughty without being obscene (“Cheeky” if you’ll forgive the pun). I have a few more vintage caftan patterns I’d like to bust out before the end of summer so you may be seeing another one before the fall starts casting those long, somber shadows. Hope you have a wonderful weekend everyone!

Thanks again to Mark Slutsky for playing fashion photographer again....

Cuba Libre

Hola amigas. I have only just returned from a week in Cuba with 3 of my best bros. We stayed in an all-inclusive resort on the island of Cayo Coco just off the coast. Normally I'm not an all-inclusive kind of lady. I prefer street food, random adventures and wandering when I'm lucky enough to go anywhere, but Cuba happens to be insanely cheap in the off season and I couldn't resist a week of sun, beer and bonding with my guy friends.

Unfortunately we didn't make it to the mainland so I didn't really see Cuba as much as stay in a strange fantasy land of endless pina coladas, sunburned tourists and really staggeringly terrible food. Foodies on vacation are a dangerous breed, especially in a country still suffering from a restrictive, and in my opinion, utterly insane embargo. Everything has to be imported - produce was minimal, quality was non-existent and when it came to the buffets, everything was overcooked and under seasoned. It's hard to complain when you know how many people there would be happy for such surplus however, but future travelers beware - hot sauce and condiments are a must-pack.

First world food complaints aside (I believe the correct term for this is "food asshole"), I am a little heartbroken we didn't get more of a chance to see the "real" Cuba. We didn't realize there were zero ATMs where we were staying, so the day we were supposed to rent a car and meet a local for a tour of a few nearby towns we stupidly discovered we were too broke to go!

(Skip ahead if you're not interested in my thoughts on the history and politics of this country....)

I remain fascinated by the country and it's warm and gracious people. Despite being a third world country, Cuba has one of the highest literacy rates in the world. Because university is free, 95% of the population has a post-secondary degree. It is illegal to not go to high school! Since Fidel Castro's brother has taken over leadership, the economy is struggling to modernize after the terrible recession following the fall of the USSR in the early 90's. While their monthly wage is almost negligible, the government provides everyone with an education, enough food to eat, a place to live and free health care. However, they remain greatly impoverished largely due to the embargo by the US, as well as politically repressed due to the dictatorship. The tourist industry provides the best income for Cubans - despite officially having "one social class", the lawyers and doctors serving drinks in resorts make much, much more in tips and gifts than it is possible to make otherwise. Coming from a thriving capitalist country, and a city in the throws of political unrest due to tuition increases by the provincial government, it was a fascinating glimpse into a world that works very differently. For many people in Canada and the US, the Cuban reality would be a blessing (food to eat, a roof over your head, etc.) Needless to say, I felt grateful to be home, grateful to eat wonderful, varied food, grateful for my internet and and sewing machine.

THAT ASIDE.... Hot and humid every day, the only thing to do was park it in the shade by the beach, read as many books as possible, snorkle, drink beer, eat burgers and wash off the sand in the crystal clear warm ocean. At night, the resort turned into a bit of a fashion show when all the tanned beauties changed from bikinis to heels and tiny dresses (despite the absolutely fearful amount of mosquitoes).

What is better for a Cuban holiday than an inifinity dress? This was one of the first things I ever sewed. I made it last summer but for some reason never wore it, maybe because it feels more appropriate for hot, tropical climates where you can sip something icy while listening to sultry Cuban bands. You can wear these marvels in a hundred different ways and the light eggplant jersey I made this with was light and moved beautifully as I walked.

The construction of this dress couldn't be more simple. You cut a simple circle skirt out of a stretch material, add a band at the waist and sew two very long 8-9" strips that can then be wrapped in an endless amount of ways (hence "infinity" dress). Shouldn't take you longer than an hour since the jersey doesn't need to be hemmed. There is an excellent tutorial I used here to make this one. No pattern necessary! I fell in love with this dress again and am thinking about making a maxi version soon enough. if you google "infinity dress" you can see a number of beautiful examples. This company sells them for the absurd price of $158 but they have some great tutorials to explain how to tis the dress. There is a small etsy army of women who make these to order - they seem to be very popular as bridesmaid dresses since they are so inexpensive to make and every lady can have a different "dress" based on how she ties it.

Later this week I'll be posting the caftan I made especially for this trip. Have a wonderful weekend my friends! I seriously missed reading all your blogs while I was gone. I'll try and spend the next few days catching up.

(Also, much thanks do my dear friend Mark Slutsky for indulging me in random photo shoots all weekend).

The Jetsons, in silver and neon

My obsession with the exposed neon zipper continues. It's like Fatal Attraction, except um, not at all (first of all, no bunnies were harmed in the production of this dress, and I think the zipper is just as into me as I'm into it).  She adds an unexpected pow-pow to your eyeballs, and I really love adding these quirky details to my garments. Makes it feel even more "me" and fairly screams "I WAS NOT PURCHASED IN A STORE."

I fell in love with this pattern a few months ago. I really like mixing prints and colours in a dress, and the geometry of this one gives it a pretty space-age hourglass shape. The crazy silver snakeskin print definitely adds to the Jetsons vibe. I saw that fabric and immediately knew it was meant for this dress, but had a hell of a time finding a contrast solid I liked in the same weight. I settled on this bright red cotton, but realized that it was a little too stiff. It's not super giving at the shoulders. And once again, my refusal to make a muslin or take the time to properly fit it bit me in the ass (am I the only one so anxious to move on to the next thing that I skip the whole "make it fit perfectly" step? *crickets*) After making a dozen or so dresses, I've realized that I almost always have to take the shoulders down. I must have a short chest or something, because this guy does not sit properly on the shoulders. Is there a "slope back" equivalent term for this fit issue? And then there's the whole 12 on top, 14 on bottom pattern piece mixing I have yet to really master. I wore this dress to work the day before this shoot and the bum got a little saggy too. Cotton! You stretchy beast!

Adding insult to injury, the cheapo poly I used to line it totally split its seams after 8 hours sitting at my desk. I'm dealing with it for now but if I ever get around to fixing my complaints about this dress, I'll replace it with silk or a soft voile.

As far as the pattern itself goes, it was a bit of a challenge for my still pretty novice skills. Those hairpin turns at the hips were a pain in the ass! I seam-ripped and resewed a number of times but there is still some weird puckering. Not completely sure where I stand on the points on the side either. The next time I make this I may try to square it off and see how it looks.

While you read this I will be basking in Cuban sunshine and hopefully drinking an indecent amount of rum with little paper umbrellas. Hopefully I will be able to come back with some photos of the caftan I just finished. Caftans! Cuba! Caliente!

Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations

Hello my friends. When I was in NYC a few weeks back I was lucky enough to squeeze in a visit to the Met for their big annual fashion exhibition (I was too busy to catch the Cindy Sherman show at MoMa or Tom Sachs (SOB!) at the Armory but we can't have it all).

I was, as the kids say, STOKED for this show. I love Miuccia Prada. Her wit, intelligence and conceptual approach to fashion is always challenging and redefining our ideas of femininity and self-expression, and she is easily one of the most influential designers of our time. This exhibit contrasted her work with that of Elsa Schiaparelli, who I have always loved for many of the same reasons I love Prada (surrealism, whimsy, and extraordinary detail and craftsmanship - what's not to love?) It was an inspired decision on behalf of the Costume Institute to pair these two directors together. If you want a far more intelligent and articulate description of this show, I encourage you to check out Hamish Bowle's write-up here.

Now to the good stuff - photos! I had to be a little sneaky about it because the guards were not a fan of my camera but I managed to capture some shots of garments I found particularly inspiring. Enjoy!

Some beautiful beadwork. Prada skirts, Schiaparelli jackets

Check out the print on that Prada skirt on the right!

Schiaparelli hats, Prada shoes

Utilitarian black - Prada on the left

Schiap on the left. Love the intricate brocade and pleats on the Prada dresses.

Prada on the left, from one of my favourite collections

Adore the ruched bodice on this Shiaparelli number

Another favourite Prada season - remember how ubiquitous these neon stripes were a few years ago?

Schiap psychedelic dress

People were literally gasping in front of these beaded Schiaparelli jackets - the embroidered elephants on the jacket on the left were breathtaking.

What a shape! Love the molded shoulders on this Schiaparelli number.

Another Schiaparelli surrealist number

Prada at her best and weirdest

Beautifully beaded Prada little black dress.