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Sunday, 3 March 2013

BACK IN BUSINESS WITH THE ELISALEX DRESS



GUESS WHO FINALLY GOT HER SEWING MACHINE RUNNING AGAIN?!

This girl. And it was a sweet, tender reunion, especially since I finally got a chance to try my By Hand London hand on the Elisalex dress! My ladies Chalotte & Elisalex released this in the fall and I've been jonesing to have a go at it for a while (nevermind that I missed the Charlotte skirt sewalong due to my move).

To be honest, I was a little apprehensive about this dress. We don't generally seek to make our hips look wider, and during the  construction process I was worried the end result was going to make me look like the Venis of Willendorf. But there is something so playful and even a little surrealistic about this silhouette. The exaggerated curve at the hip makes your waist look teeny tiny and I think the end result is a sweet, vampy, almost cartoonish celebration of a woman's curves.



Now, in order to get the tulip shape it is imperative to use a heavyweight fabric. I had spotted this fabric (forgive the pun) in November and knew immediately it was destined for this pattern, but worried when I started cutting that the medium wight slightly stretchy cotton was not going to have the heft required to maintain the silhouette. No one wants to wear a sad, deflated and dying tulip on their body. I emailed Elisalex with a photo of the fabric and she suggested a fusible interfacing on the skirt to get that stiffness I was after (ONE MORE REASON TO GO INDIE: do you think there is  a chance in hell anyone at the Big 4 would provide such service?!)

A soft interfacing I happened to have in my stash worked perfectly. Now, I was in a bit of a rush with this little number since I only had 2 days to make it before my (epic, loud, landlord called in the middle of night by neighbor) housewarming party. Horror of horrors, I forwent the muslin and hoped and prayed I wasn't going to have fit issues. AND I TOTALLY DIDN'T! I don't know if it's the princess seams or thoughtful drafting but this fit me pretty perfectly right away. I took a half inch off the sides because I think ease is overrated in a party dress and skinnied up the sleeves a bit so they would fit closer to the body. Otherwise, this dress seriously fits beautifully. The bodice may be my go to when I am frankensteining dresses in the future....

Normally I like to cut a deeper opening because my girls like to breathe but I thought for this make I would stick to the design intent of the dress, which is a modest boat neck and beautiful low cut back. I took quite a bit off the length because party time, excellent, and used a gorgeous black and gold metal zipper I recently acquired from a friend's cast off box of sewing gear. The only other mod I made was to not line the sleeves. I simply serged the bodice and lining to the arm scythe. I wore it pretty much how you see above. By the end of the night it looked more like this:




I'm sorry neighbors. It had to be done.

A shot of the insides. Please withhold your judgment about the lack of a lining. I didn't have enough cotton batiste and this interfacing is VERY soft:




This little vintage inspired number was the perfect thing to hostess in - I'm looking forward to making other versions in the future. Thank you By Hand London ladies! It's not too late to join their sewalong for this dress which I believe starts in a week or so.


It goes without saying that I've been sewing up a storm. I'm working on a gorgeous new Victory patterns dress right now, and have a shit tonne of projects I can't wait to tackle (HANDMADE BRAS, YOU WILL BE CRADLING THESE TATAS VERRRY SOON). My new sewing space slash dining room feels so luxurious and spacious right now. I will be sharing some photos once I get my mural up. Details to come! The only thing that is driving me crazy is the cutting table situation. I use my dining table which is only 30" high and my back be aching. Anyone have any creative ideas for a dining table with an adjustable height mechanism? There has gotta be a more elegant solution than propping the table legs on 6" blogs when you're working....




35 comments:

  1. Cari Homemaker3 March 2013 15:35

    That is the perfect fabric for that dress. Great pairing with the polka-dot tights too.

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  2. Errrrrrrrmaaaaagaaaawwwwd it look SO SUPER FLY on you Heather Lou! And dude, you totally nailed my 2 most favourite things about this dress - 1. that the exaggerated tulip does indeed give Scarlett O'Hara a run for her money in the teeny waist stakes (or illusion thereof!), and 2. I drafted this bodice in the first place with a view to being my go to bodice for every possible skirt and sleeve combos! Have you seen Rachel Pinheiro's Elisalotte?? E bodice with Charlotte skirt in jersey. Yum. And I think I've said this before, but I am so touched you wore this for your housewarming. I was there in spirit. xxx

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  3. This dress is AWESOME. I LOVE the polka dots. You make The Best Stuff
    and I am glad you are back on the machine!! (And I'm glad you
    introduced me to these patterns, this is a dress for the queue...)

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  4. asewingodyssey.blogspot.co.uk3 March 2013 18:27

    Whoop! Great to see you back in the sewing seat ;o) This dress is just beautiful on you, job well done and what a bonus that you had such success without even a muslin! I've had this pattern for a while, but I really am worried about the tulip skirt on my already-voluminous bottom half. Maybe have to try it out and maybe replace the skirt with a different skirt if possible. Can't wait to see what else you've been sewing and pictures of your new sewing space too ;o)

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  5. Girl, your dress rocks and you rock in it! Yeah, Big4 is a pain in the a**. How many times have I emailed them with various questions/complains - nobody gives a sh*t! Back to the dress: it looks even more epic with your red lipstick and dotty tights :-)

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  6. You've outdone yourself Miss Heather Lou, this dress is fabulous. We missed you in Toronto last weekend at the meet-up, but it sounds like your housewarming was also a lot of fun. Glad you're sewing again!

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  7. Leah Franqui4 March 2013 00:16

    DAMN this is cute! I adore this, you look amazing. So glad you are back in business, this is baller.

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  8. Stop it you magnificent creature! I bow down to your stiff tulip, your incredible styling, and your incredibly beautiful new apartment. Please feel free to share more of your apartment (I am a great big snoop).

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  9. This is yummy! Just the right amount of tulip pouf. You have the coolest tights, too. And congrats on getting the sewing up all running. Must feel good to have some grounding activities, homing and all ;). There's gotta be an Ikea hack for a groovy cutting table--I'd love an elegant solution. I have one of those craft tables with the sides that fold down and it rolls out of the way when I'm not using it. It's so ugly but it saves my back and wrists!

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  10. I love your dress! No need to be embarrassed by the lack of lining. You can always add one later or wear a slip.

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  11. So great to have you and your machine back in action! And a fabulous frock to boot as well :) Love the polkadots with the polkadots - it really is a fabulous silhouette!

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  12. Sarah Latchem4 March 2013 06:38

    This looks fabulous on you, you can definately pull off that shilouette!

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  13. that's one stunning dress.. i adore that low cut back! and so glad that you're back in business :)

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  14. Marie, JUST GO FOR IT! Hips are sexy. Might as well celebrate/exaggerate what you've got!

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  15. I never comment, but I missed seeing your blog pop up in my feed!! How about a bar height table? I have the same problem! I end up cutting on my knees!

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  16. sallieforrer4 March 2013 10:24

    YEEESSSSSSSSSS!!!! I think my pent up excitement for this day has been bordering on indecent!! Every day I check my Bloglovin and think "Will TODAY be the day that Heather returns in all her badass-itude??" AND TODAY IS THE DAY!! And you totally killed it in this dress! I completely agree, for the Elisalex dress you just cannot fight the exaggerated curves - thats the whole point of the dress! And I think not lining the skirt of a dress is a thing, right? Especially in vintage dresses, because, you know, they wore slips and such (what ladies). Also, I have a rather unfortunate cutting table height that I swear to god is turning me into a crotchety old woman who moans about her back and creaks about the house... it's been on my "to fix" list forever...

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  17. "HANDMADE BRAS, YOU WILL BE CRADLING THESE TATAS VERRRY SOON"


    hahahahahahahaaaaaaa i love you.


    interfacing! GENIUS! i picked a floppy material, that would've saved it... so freaking good to see you prancing about again. i love your elisalex!!!

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  18. KayoticSewing4 March 2013 15:22

    Lovely dress!!!



    Would bed risers work for you? they increase the table height to about 6-8 inches ...

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  19. What a comeback! Its gorgeous! Love love what you've done and love how you paired the tights. Off to order this pattern...!

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  20. Totally Babelicious!!! I love how you achieved that pouffiness with interfacing! Those BHL ladies are so smart! I bought the Charlotte skirt today, I can't wait to get it!

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  28. Gorgeous! I like the silhouette of this dress and you're version makes me want to try the pattern!

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  29. This looks great on you. You were so thoughtful about the right amount of "poof" and most importantly the LENGTH of the dress. Some versions I've seen just seem to cut the wearer off at an odd length. Your fabric choice makes this looks very modern too.

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